We left early again for the 5 towers. The plan was to do a multipitch route that we had been eyeing up yesterday. On arriving we weren’t sure whether the last pitch would be too hard for Leonie so we went and checked out a funky tower instead.
I lead the first pitch and then belayed Leonie from the anchor. She bailed after not long and instead continued belaying me from the ground as I went in search of the next anchor. I figured that the two pitches wouldn’t be longer than 60 m together and if they were longer than 30 m I could abseil back down to the first anchor.
It was pretty run out between bolts and I was not at all keen to fall but the route was very easy so it wasn’t a problem. I discovered the next anchor on a large rocky outcrop from the main tower. Leonie decided to try it again and made it up this time.
I set up the safety at the anchor so that we both had enough rope so we could walk around a bit. I then had a quick breakfast and started into the 3rd, errr 2nd pitch. The route headed off to the left and was sparsely bolted. I was again really not keen to fall. I managed it to the top and enjoyed the awesome view.
Leonie lowered me back to the anchor and I lowered her back to the ground before abseiling myself. It turned out the 60 m rope was long enough so that both strands reached the ground.
We celebrated with a cold drink at the nearby refugio before doing another climb and then heading back down to Cortina for some lazing.
Leonie and I got up at 6 am to avoid the crowds and drove up to the Refugio “Cinque Torri”. The weather gods were happy and the sun was shining. We ate breakfast at the car with the awesome rock towers of the 5 towers behind us.
We then headed slowly up to Averau. It’s a peak a bit higher up. There’s a short easy via ferrata at the beginning of the climb followed by an easy walk to the summit.
We headed back down via a Refugio for hot chocolate and cake and then it was time for some sport climbing. We found a bunch of easy routes around the 4 or 5 grade.
The towers are very impressive and the longer routes look very interesting. I eyed up a bolted 3 pitch route. There are also many longer trad routes. These I didn’t eye up.
We managed to leave reasonably early and headed back down to the Plombergstein crag near St Gilgen where we were yesterday. The plan was to have three rope teams on each of the three multi pitch routes that we knew about. Once we got there we realised though that there would not be enough time for Brendan and Domi to climb as they needed to leave earlier. Instead we decided that I would go up the middle route (Flipperl) with Sebas and Sam while Ari and Johannes would go up the rightmost route (Juniperus).
So we set off. Johannes did the first pitch on the right and I lead the first pitch on our route. Both Brendan and Domi climbed up the first pitch too to say hello before descending again and heading off. Sebas climbed up next and then Sam. We tied Sam in the middle attached to both their rope and Brendan’s rope and then I lead the next pitch. I belayed Sam up on top rope from the anchor and then she belayed Sebas.
Then it was Sebas’s turn to lead and we repeated everything in the reverse order. We caught a glimpse of both Ari and Johannes on the route after our second pitch but then they were gone. Thinking they were probably much faster and already at the top I opted to join the last two pitches together to create one long easy 60 m pitch. I arrived at the top and belayed Sam up, and Sebas followed. The others weren’t there so we sat around on the handy bench at the top and started packing up our gear.
We heard Johannes and shouted over to him. He was looking for a bolt. I tied back in and Sam belayed me over towards their route just as Johannes reached the top and secured himself on an old sling tied around a tree. He seemed to be pumping adrenalin. It had apparently not gone completely to plan. He put Ari on belay and it wasn’t long before she appeared.
Apparently Johannes had lost the route and had climbed up high above a bolt in search of it before having to clip somewhere off-route and be lowered back down. He then had to rescue the rope by securing himself and pulling the rope back down. Luckily there were some experienced climbers that were coming up behind and could help.
But there were other problems too. Ari didn’t have enough carabiners and neither of them had slings that were long enough. At one point Ari had to clip into the anchor with a string of quickdraws. It all sounded like quite an adventure, an adventure that both of them would have preferred not to have had. Still, nobody got hurt and it made us think we should be more prepared next time.
We sat at the hut at the top for a bit before walking slowly back down stopping for an hour or so on the way to explore the cool limestone structures. Then it was a quick meal at a restaurant overlooking the Wolfgangsee and we began the long drive back to Lindau. When I say we I mean Ari.
After a delicious pancake breakfast and some faffing around at our accommodation Brendan and I headed off to the Attersee for some klettersteig fun. It was a bit overcast and windy but not rainy so probably pretty good conditions really. We headed off at a leisurely pace but it seemed more fun to go fast so we cranked up the via ferrata. It was often quite steep and needed a bit of arm-haulage but it wasn’t too difficult. We got to the top in around 1 hour 45 minutes including the walking to the start. After a “gipfel” photo we headed back down at a trot. After following the zig-zags got boring we cut directly down loosing the main track and following some other track back down to the road. We knocked the whole thing off in about 2.5 hours, a full 3 hours faster than the guide. Good fun.
We followed the klettersteig with a quick dip in the Mondsee and then drove back to St Gilgen where we met the others for a picnic lunch at the Plombergstein crag. They had been doing some routes at the AV-Klettergarten there.
I was keen to try out some multi-pitch and Sebas wanted to try some harder routes so we headed around the side of the crag in search of the multi-pitch. They seemed in use so we briefly considered going off to do the Drachenwand klettersteig before deciding it was too late in the day.
Instead Domi and Brendan headed off to do an easier ferrata route (turned out to be the Drachenwand!), Ari, Sebas and Sam went off to do some harder climbing, and Johannes and I set up to do a multi-pitch route.
The route in question is named Taxus. It’s a 5 pitch route that is a mix of grades up to 4+. The first pitch is 60m, then 40m, then three 50m pitches. Here’s the topo courtesy of bergsteigen.at.
I did the first pitch and then Johannes climbed up and past the anchor to do the second pitch. All the anchor points were quite comfortable and sometimes under trees which would be nice on a very hot day. There was a nice view out across the Wolfgangsee.
At some point as we were climbing two shirtless guys climbed past us without a rope. I guess the climb is pretty easy… We topped out and then walked back down passing under impressive looking rock walls. Despite the route being so easy it still took us a good few hours.
We managed to miss the last open supermarket so instead we picked up some pasta from a petrol station and had pasta and pesto with the remains of the salad back at our fancy house. A good day.
On Wednesday night Johannes, Ari and I escaped to Munich in the Ari-mobil. We landed at Sam and Sebas’ and hung out there for the evening.
Then on Thursday the journey continued to Filzmoos in Austria. We drove from there up to a car park below the hofpürglhuette where we meet Brendan and his lady Domi. The weather was much nicer than expected and we sweated our way up the short distance to the hut (about 50 minutes).
The hut is pretty nice. Typical alpine hut. We found a spot in the mattress area and sat out on the terrace for some lunch. In typical Ari fashion, Brendan, Johannes, and I shared most of her lunch.
Then it was off for a via ferrata route that turned out to be mostly a walk with a few not strictly necessary cables near the end. It was nice though and we had patches of snow to cross which amused us and we got to kick steps with our soft shoes in the soft snow.
There was a nice view from the summit of the Steigkogel and we could see back down to the hut.
Suddenly terrified that we might get back too late for our Halbpension evening meal we headed off back down. This time we made use of the patches of snow and we did some premium glissading down to the main track. The snow was suitably soft and the gradient not too steep so as to make it safe.
We were all quite successful except that Brendan decided that his shoes were then too wet and that his bare mountain feet would be more appropriate for the rest of the way back along the stony route.
We ascended a short distance back to the Steiglpass before heading back down towards the hut aided by more snow.
After dinner we got a little bit of sport climbing in on a couple of the 150+ routes in the area. We headed back down to the hut at dusk shortly before 10 pm. A nice day. Life is good.