We left early again for the 5 towers. The plan was to do a multipitch route that we had been eyeing up yesterday. On arriving we weren’t sure whether the last pitch would be too hard for Leonie so we went and checked out a funky tower instead.
I lead the first pitch and then belayed Leonie from the anchor. She bailed after not long and instead continued belaying me from the ground as I went in search of the next anchor. I figured that the two pitches wouldn’t be longer than 60 m together and if they were longer than 30 m I could abseil back down to the first anchor.
It was pretty run out between bolts and I was not at all keen to fall but the route was very easy so it wasn’t a problem. I discovered the next anchor on a large rocky outcrop from the main tower. Leonie decided to try it again and made it up this time.
I set up the safety at the anchor so that we both had enough rope so we could walk around a bit. I then had a quick breakfast and started into the 3rd, errr 2nd pitch. The route headed off to the left and was sparsely bolted. I was again really not keen to fall. I managed it to the top and enjoyed the awesome view.
Leonie lowered me back to the anchor and I lowered her back to the ground before abseiling myself. It turned out the 60 m rope was long enough so that both strands reached the ground.
We celebrated with a cold drink at the nearby refugio before doing another climb and then heading back down to Cortina for some lazing.
Leonie and I got up at 6 am to avoid the crowds and drove up to the Refugio “Cinque Torri”. The weather gods were happy and the sun was shining. We ate breakfast at the car with the awesome rock towers of the 5 towers behind us.
We then headed slowly up to Averau. It’s a peak a bit higher up. There’s a short easy via ferrata at the beginning of the climb followed by an easy walk to the summit.
We headed back down via a Refugio for hot chocolate and cake and then it was time for some sport climbing. We found a bunch of easy routes around the 4 or 5 grade.
The towers are very impressive and the longer routes look very interesting. I eyed up a bolted 3 pitch route. There are also many longer trad routes. These I didn’t eye up.
We managed to leave reasonably early and headed back down to the Plombergstein crag near St Gilgen where we were yesterday. The plan was to have three rope teams on each of the three multi pitch routes that we knew about. Once we got there we realised though that there would not be enough time for Brendan and Domi to climb as they needed to leave earlier. Instead we decided that I would go up the middle route (Flipperl) with Sebas and Sam while Ari and Johannes would go up the rightmost route (Juniperus).
So we set off. Johannes did the first pitch on the right and I lead the first pitch on our route. Both Brendan and Domi climbed up the first pitch too to say hello before descending again and heading off. Sebas climbed up next and then Sam. We tied Sam in the middle attached to both their rope and Brendan’s rope and then I lead the next pitch. I belayed Sam up on top rope from the anchor and then she belayed Sebas.
Then it was Sebas’s turn to lead and we repeated everything in the reverse order. We caught a glimpse of both Ari and Johannes on the route after our second pitch but then they were gone. Thinking they were probably much faster and already at the top I opted to join the last two pitches together to create one long easy 60 m pitch. I arrived at the top and belayed Sam up, and Sebas followed. The others weren’t there so we sat around on the handy bench at the top and started packing up our gear.
We heard Johannes and shouted over to him. He was looking for a bolt. I tied back in and Sam belayed me over towards their route just as Johannes reached the top and secured himself on an old sling tied around a tree. He seemed to be pumping adrenalin. It had apparently not gone completely to plan. He put Ari on belay and it wasn’t long before she appeared.
Apparently Johannes had lost the route and had climbed up high above a bolt in search of it before having to clip somewhere off-route and be lowered back down. He then had to rescue the rope by securing himself and pulling the rope back down. Luckily there were some experienced climbers that were coming up behind and could help.
But there were other problems too. Ari didn’t have enough carabiners and neither of them had slings that were long enough. At one point Ari had to clip into the anchor with a string of quickdraws. It all sounded like quite an adventure, an adventure that both of them would have preferred not to have had. Still, nobody got hurt and it made us think we should be more prepared next time.
We sat at the hut at the top for a bit before walking slowly back down stopping for an hour or so on the way to explore the cool limestone structures. Then it was a quick meal at a restaurant overlooking the Wolfgangsee and we began the long drive back to Lindau. When I say we I mean Ari.