We were rather unmotivated to do anything as it was grey again. However after a little while the blue returned to the sky. Yay. We left Bismo with blue sky and headed to Lom. Despite the sun it was rather cold. In Lom we found a supermarket that was open on Sunday for special “summer times” and we bought lots of delicious goodies. Then we headed off to the Lom bakery recommended by Jakob. We bought a super yummy fruit and nut loaf and devoured half of it. We then promptly bought a second loaf.
Then it was a few hours of cycling up the Bv55 until we got bored of it. We turned off the road and are camping beside a lake. And it’s not raining! There was even a patch of sunshine a while ago. Amazing…
We cooked up a delicious feast of salmon vegies and rice and devoured it.
Above: The view from our campsite at a lake off a side road along the Bv55. Please take extra care when viewing this picture to note that it is infact not raining. It is also worth noting that Photoshop was not used to remove rain from this photo.
We have just rented a little cabin in the village Bismo for the night. Strangely enough the cabins cost not much more than camping and as it’s around 12 degrees outside and we were cold from cycling we decided why not.
The day started in our glorious DNT hut in the Breheimen national park. Unfortunately the weather was doing silly things again. It wasn’t really nice enough to go on a side mission further into the park so we headed back out the way we had come in.
We collected our bikes and dropped the hut key in at Sota Saeta on the way back. Realising we’d be pushing it to get to the supermarket before they closed I did some speedy cycling arriving just 1 hour and 5 minutes too late. It turns out they close even earlier than we had thought.
The weather was finally doing good things. It was quite warm and reasonably sunny and there was a decent helping of blue sky above. We set off from our camp site and headed slowly up hill to the DNT (the Norwegian hiking association – they have a huge number of huts all over Norway) hut named Sota Saeta (actually written with a funny ae contraption). The friendly staff there lent us the DNT cabin key and we carried on cycling towards a second hut further up the valley named Slaeom. We dumped our bikes and extra gear in some bushes and wrapped our spiffy all purpose camo-tarp around everything. Now that our gear was invisible to all but the most hardened military types we set off on foot towards the hut.
The route in was nice and we were treated to some sunshine amongst the rain that had started during the bike ride. The track took us up a wide valley winding over large flat stones, through rivers, plenty of bog, and then onwards along the left hand side of a big lake. It was looking more snowy by this time and we trapsed through the occasional snow drift me, in my jandals.
We reached the hut around 9:30 pm and it was mighty nippy. We used our magic key and let ourselves into a really nice little mountain hut. In fact there were two, one larger and a smaller one not far away. We failed to get the gas stove going in the bigger hut so lit the fire instead. It wasn’t long until the cold had been banished and we had sauna temperatures. We cooked a feast on the pot belly stove and amused ourselves looking through all the food in the store room of the hut.
DNT huts are extremely nice. I really like NZ huts but DoC could learn a thing or to! I guess it’s a different style. It’s possible to walk in carrying just some warm clothes to one of these DNT huts. Food, cooking facilities, cutlery, and duvets are provided. And it being Norway rather than one of the backward countries in central Europe you can pay for everything by writing your credit card number on a form and posting it in the payments box.
We got stuck into the hot chocolate and Twinings earl grey tea. Mmmm both were very good. We were amused to see that most of the food was past its best before date. Amused but not worried. Rice can’t really go bad that quickly.
Quite surprisingly it wasn’t raining when we woke up. In fact after breakfast there was a tiny patch of blue sky. We decided to continue on our way and to my disappointment we left the patch of blue sky behind, however to my amazement as we cycled the clouds slowly dispersed until after a few hours we were cycling with enough blue sky to make me a very happy camper.
The route took us generally downwards but the loss in height was much more gradual than the change in height had been in our ascent from Geirangerfiord. We passed a crashed Nazi plane from WW2 on the side of the road, stopped at a delicious swirling river for photos and even managed to get a little sun burnt on the way. The road was quite wide and the route had that national park feel which was fitting as on one side of the road was the Reinheimen NP and on the other the Breheimen NP. There was very little traffic and lots of forest and lakes surrounding the road. Yum yum.
We stopped for the night a wee bit before the town Bismo and pitched our tent in a camping ground. How civilised.
We are tucked up in our tent in a big wide valley plateau thing on the other side of the pass leading up from Geirangerfjord. It’s 12:30 am and we finished slurping our pasta vegie soup not long ago, horizontal, fishing bits and pieces out of the billy with our heads sticking out of the tent. There is the patter of light rain which probably means another day of wet riding tomorrow.
Today was a good day though. This was no doubt helped by the weather. It didn’t rain. At least not until now. We left our camp site reasonably late in the morning. The sky was not blue. Let’s not overdo things. The sky was grey and cloudy but… but… not raining. We found some public toilets near the shore of the fiord and spent some time happily splashing water over ourselves. Then I made the glorious discovery that they had a shower around the back. We splashed 20 Kr of deliciously warm water over ourselves and the feeling of cleanliness was superb.
We put our sparkling clean legs to work and cruised up into the hills. It was a balmy 20 degrees and all was good. We almost got real sun every now and then. Almost… The road was narrow and there wasn’t a lot of traffic. It made for nice cycling. We passed cows, sheep, and lakes.
From the top we descended down to a fiord and caught the oh so very touristy ferry across to Geirangerfjord. It’s supposed to be the most spectacular fiord in Norway but we felt it was a little ruined by the tourists, cruise ships, general commercialisation, tourists, and the tourists.
Once reaching the shore we left the fiord as quickly as possibly and climbed steadily for the next couple of hours to the pass. The view back down into the fiord was very nice although a little too cloudy. The road winds its way backwards and forwards up into the sky. The higher we got the greater the number of waves, and thumbs up we got from motorists and motorcyclists. This could also be because it was 9 pm and rather chilly and I was wearing jandals and reasonably summery cycling attire. It was 9 degrees at the pass and Leonie was rather cold. Camping at the pass was ruled out and we descending until it flattened off. We checked the map and realised it was still quite a way to the next camp site and as it was now quite late, still cold and looking like rain we found a place to camp off a little side road.
I cooked us some soup for dinner and tried to defend myself from the mosquitoes while Leonie tried to get warm in the tent. And that’s about it for the day. It’s done its best to get dark but it’s only managed a dusk light again.