Leonie and I headed off early again, this time to Passo Valparola a bit further on from Passo di Falzarego. We followed the technically easy Kaiserjaegersteig up to Rifugio Lagazuoi where we had a delicious hot chocolate and apple struedel to reward our efforts. Then we headed back down through a tunnel system that was built in the war. The tunnels were long and constructed right inside the mountain itself. Occasionally there were passageways leading to openings to the outside. From there there were views to the surrounding mountains and down to the Cinque Torri.
After a delicious pancake breakfast and some faffing around at our accommodation Brendan and I headed off to the Attersee for some klettersteig fun. It was a bit overcast and windy but not rainy so probably pretty good conditions really. We headed off at a leisurely pace but it seemed more fun to go fast so we cranked up the via ferrata. It was often quite steep and needed a bit of arm-haulage but it wasn’t too difficult. We got to the top in around 1 hour 45 minutes including the walking to the start. After a “gipfel” photo we headed back down at a trot. After following the zig-zags got boring we cut directly down loosing the main track and following some other track back down to the road. We knocked the whole thing off in about 2.5 hours, a full 3 hours faster than the guide. Good fun.
We followed the klettersteig with a quick dip in the Mondsee and then drove back to St Gilgen where we met the others for a picnic lunch at the Plombergstein crag. They had been doing some routes at the AV-Klettergarten there.
I was keen to try out some multi-pitch and Sebas wanted to try some harder routes so we headed around the side of the crag in search of the multi-pitch. They seemed in use so we briefly considered going off to do the Drachenwand klettersteig before deciding it was too late in the day.
Instead Domi and Brendan headed off to do an easier ferrata route (turned out to be the Drachenwand!), Ari, Sebas and Sam went off to do some harder climbing, and Johannes and I set up to do a multi-pitch route.
The route in question is named Taxus. It’s a 5 pitch route that is a mix of grades up to 4+. The first pitch is 60m, then 40m, then three 50m pitches. Here’s the topo courtesy of bergsteigen.at.
I did the first pitch and then Johannes climbed up and past the anchor to do the second pitch. All the anchor points were quite comfortable and sometimes under trees which would be nice on a very hot day. There was a nice view out across the Wolfgangsee.
At some point as we were climbing two shirtless guys climbed past us without a rope. I guess the climb is pretty easy… We topped out and then walked back down passing under impressive looking rock walls. Despite the route being so easy it still took us a good few hours.
We managed to miss the last open supermarket so instead we picked up some pasta from a petrol station and had pasta and pesto with the remains of the salad back at our fancy house. A good day.
We woke at the Hofpürglhütte to clouds followed by rain. As this wasn’t the best for climbing we had breakfast and wombled down to the cars. We then drove to the Wolfgangsee with some creative navigation that involved us driving over a pass. Unfortunately this cost us 10 EUR for the entertainment but as we are positive people we saw the positive side and intensely enjoyed the mountain air, the winding road, the cows, and all that could be enjoyed.
We drove to Gasthof Kleefeld for lunch and did the Brustwand klettersteig, the same one that Leonie and I had done a few weeks earlier. Then it was off for a swim in the lake briefly as the sun was coming out. It was then time to look for our accommodation between Strobl and Bad Ischl. It turned out to be a very large arty apartment with room for nine people at least. It had a balcony facing onto a river and it was all quite excellent.
We set about cooking dinner and spent the evening listening to chilled out music, drinking wine, and chatting. Sam and Sebas turned up from Munich in time to enjoy the evening too.
Above left: Rain forced a hasty getaway from the Hofpürglhütte and we drove to Kleefeld at the Wolfgangsee and did the Brustwand klettersteig. Above right: All went well.
On Wednesday night Johannes, Ari and I escaped to Munich in the Ari-mobil. We landed at Sam and Sebas’ and hung out there for the evening.
Then on Thursday the journey continued to Filzmoos in Austria. We drove from there up to a car park below the hofpürglhuette where we meet Brendan and his lady Domi. The weather was much nicer than expected and we sweated our way up the short distance to the hut (about 50 minutes).
The hut is pretty nice. Typical alpine hut. We found a spot in the mattress area and sat out on the terrace for some lunch. In typical Ari fashion, Brendan, Johannes, and I shared most of her lunch.
Then it was off for a via ferrata route that turned out to be mostly a walk with a few not strictly necessary cables near the end. It was nice though and we had patches of snow to cross which amused us and we got to kick steps with our soft shoes in the soft snow.
There was a nice view from the summit of the Steigkogel and we could see back down to the hut.
Suddenly terrified that we might get back too late for our Halbpension evening meal we headed off back down. This time we made use of the patches of snow and we did some premium glissading down to the main track. The snow was suitably soft and the gradient not too steep so as to make it safe.
We were all quite successful except that Brendan decided that his shoes were then too wet and that his bare mountain feet would be more appropriate for the rest of the way back along the stony route.
We ascended a short distance back to the Steiglpass before heading back down towards the hut aided by more snow.
After dinner we got a little bit of sport climbing in on a couple of the 150+ routes in the area. We headed back down to the hut at dusk shortly before 10 pm. A nice day. Life is good.
Daniele, Katerina, Chris, Julia, and I headed off to Götzis in search of the elusive Via Örfla klettersteig. Daniele and Katerina had looked for it before but had not found it so this time they brought reinforcements, extra pairs of eyes.
The route starts at the swimming pool in Götzis and follows a river along a marked track for some time. It then takes a left and continues up the river in the Örflaschlucht. This is a nice ravine with high cliff walls. Walking up this river feels like you have landed in the jungle somewhere in Asia. It feels remote. The track is marked occasionally with rock piles. We found the start of the klettersteig after maybe 45 minutes walking on the true left of the river.
The klettersteig is not too difficult. It feels like a B/C route. It crosses the river again and the scenery is really nice. A sharp climb with views back down into the ravine. A little more walking and you come to the end… Except you haven’t… There’s a small section of walking before you get to the last section which is more like a D and ascends directly out of the ravine (you’ve already done a good part of the climbing).
It’s a sustained few minutes of climbing and you are finished. There’s then a nice walk back down which drops back into the ravine lower down and then leads back out the way you came to where you started.
Above: A map of the area (Kompass Wanderkarte)